Living wild

Well, as wild as it gets living in our van!  Watching the sunset on our evening promenade, to return to our van as the sky glows red, sound of the waves crashing on the sea shore as we tuck in for the night. 

Ah but the price we pay is the wind. Unrelenting strong and all day and night. From the north and cool. This is normal here. Like rain in Wales, wind in Dakhla. They go together. Is it a problem? Not unless you make it one. The sun shines all day, it's cool in the van, hot in the sun. Flies are kept away. It's got a lot going for it. 

Then there is swimming in February! 

A real joy and our sandy point allows a cool dip even if the waves are big. Also are there are shells and the mermaids! 

Endless clear water and blue skies. 

So the wind?, a small price to pay for all this loveliness. Yes the van shakes at night and a lot of folk hide behind walls for the day and night but we prefer the ocean side and make the wind our friend. 

Walking here is brilliant. Miles upon miles of coastline. Wide open space and sand! 

Which way should the shadows go today? North or South, East or, well you get the idea. 

Anyway the wind blows!!!

There aren't many obstacles  on the cliffs but this one must be from a time gone by. Derelict and smelly, it was once an outpost for defence we assume. A mini fort on the edge of life, guarding who knows what from who knows who. 

This is bird country but they too seem to be constantly governed by the wind. Taking off for us as we pass, then landing again to shelter from the constant blow. 

But we shadows carry on relentless. Won't be put off by wind like the birds. 

Go shadows Go. 

And now it's time for a wash. Wild camping has its drawbacks and keeping clean is one of them. Now swimming is ok for a day or so but salt water doesn't quite do it for certain things. ! ! So the local water source is just the job. A sulphur spring from fossil rocks some kilometre down in the ground. It comes out hot! And makes for a wonderful shower and water supply for dishes etc. It does pong a bit but that goes away quickly and leaves us feeling fresh and clean. 

Now it may look like a swimming pool but it's not. It's the supply for a series of small farms here and the holding tank just looks like a swimming pool!! There are no steps in or out so care has to be taken. We are not alone as tourists and locals alike make use of it. 

That pipe on the far right is what makes it possible for us to use the 'pool'. 

And to clothes washing, how about around here Ted. 

Well why not love. Feel free. You do some washing and I'll ? Mmm find something to do. 

Look at me. I'm all wet from washing. 

Well done that girl. Clean things to put on as well. Now to drying them? That shouldn't take long! ! 

How about another walk? Why not. Got plenty of time before sunset. 

 

Dakhla dream

And as we didn't know what to expect, it does seem to be part of a dream. Wild camping on the edge of the ocean. Next to a right hand point break. Surfing to be had and swimming too. Can this be true? There must be a catch and the famous wind of Dakhla must surely be it. But there again, it's why the wind and kite surfers come here. So as long as the wind keeps to the afternoons, we won't complain. In fact, we seem to have re entered a time of our youth. So a surfing I must go! But more on that later.

With a view from our window like the one above, how can we be anything but happy at our decision to drive the 500 miles to get here. Tired too you might say. Well I am. Yes, I've been surfing and after two attempts at catching waves, I failed. So no endless pictures this year of me surfing. Phew, I hear you breath a sigh of relief. My arms don't work and the waves were hell bent on breaking on my head. Everyone else seems to be having a good time. My running in period I suppose. Old man take a look at yourself, as the song goes.

But I won't be beaten and the following day, longboard under arm, I paddle out, have a nervous ten minutes and catch a corking right hander that sends me hurtling down the point with hoots of encouragement from the locals. They spot an old hippy a mile off and seem to love us.
So I'm on my feet again. Walk back up the point and an easy paddle out for another wave. I'm on a roll. Long boards are better for catching waves and i need all the help I can get. Oh those aching shoulders.
The Atlantic rollers thunder in to this little cove, a good walk from where we are camped. Endless coastline and a strong wind. Blue skies, hot sun. And only 22 kms north of the tropic of Cancer.

Krysia thinks it's cool too. She likes to see her surfy boy get to his feet. Were both feeling young at heart. It's just the body that lets me down. Time waits for no man. So we have to make the most of the now we have. And now? It's a Dakhla Dream come true.

The journey South

We're off, and the journey is long. Well it seems like that as, it feels like we are jumping off a cliff as we turn right out of Tan Tan Plage and head south. All an illusion! Of course. We have just built this next leg of our journey into something scary. Five years it has taken us to make the leap. 500 miles of nothing, we have been warned by those who like to instil fear into others. And we have broken down twice at Goulmime in previous years, halting any attempt at going the distance to Dakhla. But not this time, Vannie is going really well and apart from fear, there's nothing to stop us. And soon we pass campers all over the place. Well at first anyway. Then the sand and the space take over. Endless miles of good road and sparse population. Well to us anyway. There are nomad tents always to be seen in the distance and fishing huts line the cliffs whenever we are close enough to notice.

Sand. And more sand. Blowing in the wind. Crossing the road and piling up on ever growing dunes. We are mesmerized by it. And the miles upon miles of road pass by, interrupted only by the occasional camel and police control point. Always courteous, just where are you going, whats your business. Welcome to Morocco. Oh, and at on place, stop please, you have been caught speeding! What, I'm in the middle of.....Don't say it Ted, you've been caught on a speed camera! doing a few kms over the limit and haven't got a foot to stand on. Pay up. 21 quid. ( 300 Dirhams, great exchange rate this year £ to Dhs ! ) And as Fuel has dropped in price by a third down here in the Western Sahara, it's now only 6.5 dhs a liter against 9.5 up north! I'm not going to complain. All in a days driving here in Morocco. Most travellers have the same experience. The police who nabbed me were sooo polite, I had a ticket so no funny business and the even apologized for spoiling my day! Well they didn't. and on we go.

And then, it starts to rain! Black at first in the sky and then a downpour. Amazing.
                                                                 Purple Haze

No not in my brain as the song says, all along the roadside, the purple flowers that we've come across in the interior are blessing our trip heading south. Once more, it is winter her.

wow the wind does howl and the sand pile over the road. This is a main road in Laayoune.

And here is the entrance to Boujdour, where we will stop for the night. A fishing town, quite alone on the coast, 200 miles north of our destination.

We park up on the beach, all alone and spend a quiet night contemplating our wonderful journey so far. Locals pass by and greet us. Welcome and have a good sleep. You are very safe here, we are told. The police drive by and acknowledge us and leave us be.

                               Morning Krysia, you look happy. What you looking at?

                                              Well, just look at the view Ted!

So on we go. 200 miles to Dakhla. And we make excellent time. The road is fair to good and the miles fly by. 

 Buses, now they travel fast. Whoomph and the van shakes as the drivers smile and sometimes wave.

                                                      Purple Haze, is in my mind

                                                     We're on the road to Dakhla

                         and it gets better and better as we approach this 30 kilometer peninsular

                       The road cuts across the lagoon which we assume fills right up to here.

 Another Police check point? No, they're just sitting here in their van, keeping an eye on who's coming and going.

                                                                   The lagoon

  

And the Atlantic side is where we head to stop after our most wonderful journey. We are here.

Moving south soon

But before we leave, I must introduce you to our neighbours. Patricia and Bea. Now neighbours are very important, as we all know. There is a fine line between too much and too little. A balance. And with these two lovely people, we found just that. From Neuvy sue Loire, France, they have been in business and are now retired. Life is a mystery and they, like us, are trying to 'go with the flow' and it ain't easy. So they took heart in our presence as we did in theirs. A few words of pleasantness a day and then, to say goodbye, they invite us over to theirs for a meal. Sweet people. Good luck to you both. 

Now, back to me! And my blue period. There's a history of the blues, so I though I'd tackle it on the beach! I know what you're thinking. He's lost the plot. Maybe I have.

I found a piece of blue glass on the beach so I thought I'd get creative with it, hope you like it 

Interesting eh ! Mmmm

Well Krysia knows I as mad as a hatter so she just smiles and enjoys the day

Love in the rocks, well a heart at least.